Russell's Walk Around Wales

800 miles walked!  I left my excellent B&B in light rain and set off to rejoin the coast path. This proved to be more challenging than expected due to tracks across the dunes being complex and overgrown, but I made it in the end. A clearly defined path next to the coast ultimately brought me to Porthcawl, but the rain did not portray its qualities as a holiday resort in the best light. The rain finally stopped, but the pace slowed down as the path crossed a lengthy section of sand dunes - it takes much more effort to walk through fine sand with a heavy rucksack. My guidebook indicated that the river at Ogmore could be crossed at very low tides, but I was out of luck, so a detour of several miles was required. I just had time for refreshments at the pub in Southerndown, before catching the bus to Bridgend. My original airbnb booking on the route had been cancelled, so the replacement accommodation is a new experience - a Wetherspoons hotel! ...

After a short absence, the sun returned today. The coastal path weaved its way out of Swansea via a  scenic route through woodland and along a quiet canal before changing the mood and passing under, then over some major flyovers. A cyclist caught up with me, then slowed down to interrogate me about my walk. I headed to Aberavon and was pleasantly surprised by its beautiful sandy beach and its pleasant promenade. A local informed me that coal could often be found in the sand.  The route through Port Talbot is best described as industrial, with its massive steelworks and gas plants, but not the place to stop for lunch.  The coast path signs around Aberavon and Port Talbot seemed to bear no resemblance to my online Ordnance Survey map, which resulted in wasted time and much frustration.  The path later turned inland through Margam and crossed a railway sidings into Margam Moors. One final drama as I left the coast path towards my B&B accommodation - 'Pri...

I headed to Swansea bus station for the final time to catch the bus back to the start of the walk. I'd love to know who plans the bus routes here - today, in a narrow terraced street near the city centre, we were caught behind the refuse collection truck for ten minutes.  It was another grey, damp, misty morning as I set off from Southgate. I soon caught up with a group of four ladies and walked with them for a couple of miles. They were on a walking/gin tasting/chocolate tasting week, but I suspect they told their friends they were on a walking holiday! The route descended to fine, sandy beaches at Caswell and Langland, then became a concrete path as it rounded Mumbles Head, then transformed to a fully fledged pedestrian and cycle track for the long section across Swansea Bay. Here it started to rain, a fine drizzle, but enough to dampen clothes, despite waterproofs. The beach runs very close to the centre of Swansea, but it was deserted today. I enjoyed my time on The...

The Swansea area was draped in grey cloud and the wipers on the bus taking me back to Rossili were working overtime. At Rossili I donned my waterproofs and attached my rucksack cover. I was now incognito - my destination and mission were no longer visible. Yet, somehow, on the coast it didn't rain. Yes, it was grey and damp, but the rain in the distance never quite had the strength to reach me. The route along cliff top paths was true coastal walking, with regular views of waves crashing against ageless rock formations. The beaches were quiet, unsurprisingly, but a few hardy souls weren't about to let grey skies interfere with their holiday fun. At one point a missing river crossing caused concern, but another was found not far away. Then another coast path diversion, probably caused by erosion of sand dunes, added some unwanted steps.  The walk ended at Southgate and I waited in the bus shelter feeling damp. The bus was ten minutes late, so the hot bath was ten min...

I caught the bus back to the start of the walk. After a couple of students alighted, I was the only passenger for most of the journey.  Today started on the salt marshes, following quiet lanes, with Gower ponies and newly sheared sheep my only company. Then an official diversion, which annoyingly added about a mile to my walk, but I eventually reached Whiteford Point.  At last, a beach, sand dunes, the sea! Inspiring had returned! I strode out along the beach against a strong breeze, then the path returned to the coast, before a final beach section, then a gradual climb to the bustling village of Rossili. The return bus to Swansea was full this time, as it weaved its way down narrow country lanes. I was due to be joined now by my old uni friend Stephen Hughes for a couple of days. Unfortunately, Steve was participating in the dangerous sport of dog walking and managed to slip and break his wrist quite badly. Best wishes for a speedy recovery Steve. ...

It was not the most auspicious start to the day as I poured orange juice on my cornflakes instead of milk! I wouldn't recommend this pairing. I left the very comfortable farmhouse and walked down the muddy footpath to the station and caught the train back to Llanelli. It's fair to say that today's walk, following and crossing the estuary, was not the most inspiring of my journey to date. Much of it was on cycle paths, including a section through the National Wetland Centre, and the views were often restricted to marshes and mud-flats. Perhaps it was also the weather, which was cloudy until mid-afternoon. Perhaps it was my lunch break at one of the few benches en route, when I discovered that my rucksack and I were covered with hundreds of tiny insects. A hasty exit followed!  I finished at Pen Clawdd, but had to retrace my steps three miles to Gowerton, as there are no buses on a Sunday. From here I caught the train to Swansea, my base for the next four nights, ...

Two big landmarks today! 700 miles walked and two thirds of my Welsh odyssey completed. It was a day of two halves. A blanket of sea mist had covered Kidwelly. I followed the well defined path around an old airfield and through salt marshes, with the distant drone of racing motorbikes my sound track - the Pembrey motor racing track was the source. The path eventually and quite suddenly arrived at the beach. It was desolate and the waves were barely visible in the mist. I hadn't seen a soul since starting the walk. I walked along the sand for a mile or so, then the mist dramatically lifted and a new world opened up. The sun came out, people appeared, and it immediately transformed into a holiday beach. The path then cut through Pembrey Country Park, which offered a wide range of activities to keep local families entertained on a summer Saturday afternoon. A pleasant cycle way led to Burry Port, then onward to the Millennium Coastal Park before arriving in Llanelli. With ...

....and on the forty-first day IT RAINED! Persistent showers, not the drenching type, but enough to get you quite damp. I dusted down my waterproofs and reflected on how lucky I had been to walk 675 miles from Chester without needing them. During a heavier shower, I managed to find a newly painted village shelter to pull out my rucksack cover and to protect my phone from the rain. Most of today's walk was along quiet country lanes. One exception was around a derelict farm, where direction signs were missing and parts of the route were heavily overgrown. I descended to the village of Ferryside, where the railway station shelter provided a dry place to eat lunch. Without notice, the rain stopped and the sun came out for a short spell. By the time I'd climbed the hill to my farmhouse accommodation, I was just about dry.

Wow! 40 days of waterproof-less walking in Wales - who'd have thought it? The route for the next two days follows the estuary up to the next river crossing and back, so not much real coastal walking. I'd just made it to the other side south of St Clairs, when my phone rang. It was my host from last night to say I hadn't paid for my accommodation (admin mix-up), but she wanted to donate it to my fundraising page. Thank you so much Jackie for such generosity.  Shortly afterwards, I opened a gate at a farmhouse and three dogs appeared from nowhere barking at me. I immediately retreated to the other side of the gate and looked at alternative routes. There were none. Miraculously, another walker then appeared (a rare site indeed!). It was Emma (of 'Emma Walks West Wales', raising money for Alzheimer's), who calmly led me past the feisty hounds (perhaps a little hyperbole!) to safety. Thank you Emma. The footpath to Llansteffan was delightful, but thereaft...

A tough day. I left my comfortable Airbnb and followed the coast path to Saundersfoot and then continued through its tunnels. The 4 Hs (hills, heavy bag, hot weather, and high mileage) were conspiring to make it a challenging day. The ups were hard work, but I made it to Amroth, the official start/finish of the 180 mile Pembrokeshire coast path. There I met Ross Jenkin, who had just finished running the entire path in 2 days and 16 hours, a new record. That's 67 miles a day!  Back to more ups and downs in the afternoon sun, while battling the fifth H, horseflies, which seem to be thriving this year. I reached Pendine sands, an expansive beach where speed records were sometimes broken, but frequently attempted. Much of the last section to Laugharne was along the road or on pathways close to it. Dylan Thomas, the Welsh writer and poet, lived here and described it as a "timeless, mild, beguiling island of a town". It's hard to disagree. ...