Russell's Walk Around Wales

Back to walk! I caught the first train to Pwllheli, then the local bus, which took the most indirect route possible to Abersoch and arrived fifteen minutes late. I was on a mission. I had a train to catch. Five hours and fifty minutes to get to Criccieth. A time trial! Apart from my CRUK tee shirt, I was incognito - no sign promoting my walk, no time to hustle for donations. I left the busy resort of Abersoch behind me and glided imperiously along the coast path, up and over the hill overlooking the bay, then along a long stretch of Llanbedrog beach, eventually reaching Pwllheli once more. I was ahead of time as I rounded the marina, then had to negotiate the energy sapping fine sand of another beach. The final section was mainly on the road, but I had it in the bag, with thirty minutes to spare!  I posted elsewhere a photo of former England cricket captain Michael Atherton holding up one of my promo cards. My good friend and distant cousin Chris Brookes won tickets for...

A well-earned rest day today. No walking!

Left my luxury pad in Aberdaron and, after crossing farmland, was soon back on the coast. Stunning views of Aberdaron and Bardsey island, before descending to Hell's Mouth beach, a 3 mile stretch of largely deserted sand. Then another climb, rewarded with fine views towards Snowdonia, before a long descent to Abersoch, which was teeming with tourists. Needless to say, the sun shone all day long and a gentle breeze provided comfort to the walker. I was facing a public transport problem. I needed to catch a bus, then a train to near Barmouth, my walking  base for the next ten days. Unfortunately, it being a bank holiday Monday, the buses were running to a Sunday timetable, whereas the trains were following a normal Monday schedule. This meant that the bus was due to arrive at the station 3 minutes after the train had departed!  Fortunately, the kindness of strangers prevailed, when John and Chris, a couple I'd met on the path at lunchtime, generously offered to colle...

After two solid weeks of walking, I decided to give myself half a day off. So I booked a boat trip to Bardsey island (Ynys Enlli), the island of 20,000 saints. Since I was a child I have visited Cardigan bay and looked out to this island on the horizon, close to the Llyn Peninsula. It's been on my bucket list for years, so I finally made it there today. It's a twenty minute crossing, but en route the skilful ferry man steers close to the cliffs and points out puffins, fulmar, kittiwakes, guillemots, shags, razorbills and oystercatchers. I wandered around the island and spotted over seventy grey seals, then climbed to the highest point and walked along the ridge for stunning views of the entire island and the mainland. The return trip was pretty choppy and some fellow passengers arrived back somewhat wet. I was met at the slip way by my cousin Vivienne and her friend Jane. It was back to work for me, as they joined me for a walk around the headland, with impressive v...

A glorious day of coastal walking under a cloudless sky. The initial part from Nefyn followed a narrow, elevated path, surrounded by hedgerows, but with regular glimpses of sandy beaches and the sea beyond. The path then became more open, while the sights, sounds and smells of nature exploded into life. I saw my first seals and porpoises of the trip, listened to the songs of stonechats and a persistent cuckoo, while breathing in the sweet smell of gorse and the salty aroma of the sea. Eventually the path diverted inland, due to a landslide which eroded the official route a couple of years ago. Then it returned to the coast, passing rocky bays and sparsely populated beaches. It was another very long walk, but any tiredness was eased by a relaxing bath at my beachfront hotel in busy Aberdaron.

I'm not normally an early starter, but today was an exception. I caught the 07.35 bus back to Dinas, rather than waiting two hours for the next one. It was another walk of two halves. The first nine miles were along a busy road to Trefor - safe and easy walking, but not very inspiring. The second half was a mighty challenge. A long and strenuous uphill section in the sun up to the Eifl pass, the highest point of the entire Wales Coast Path, offered stunning views back to the start, then a steep descent to Nant Gwrtheyrn, a restored mining village now used as a Welsh language centre, took me back to sea level. Then followed another climb, before a final descent to Nefyn. Definitely time for a post-walk nap! For dinner, a welcome return to lasagne and chips, after what seems a lengthy break!

I walked across fields from my B&B to the town centre and met up with Suzanne, a fellow member of the Land's End to John O' Groats Association and an avid long distance walker. Under cloudless skies we followed the Menai Straits through woodland, passing through the pretty village of Felinheli, before reaching the historic town of Caernarfon, famed for its medieval castle. Eventually, the path turned inland and followed country lanes until we reached the end of the walk at Dinas Dinlle, just beyond Caernarfon airport. From here we caught the local bus back to Caernarfon.  Today's walk was probably the easiest to date - a flat, easy to follow route in pleasant conditions. It was good to have company again, after a run of solo days.

Sunshine, clouds, and a light breeze. I caught the local bus down to the start at Malltraeth, then spent the first hour or so in the tranquil Newborough Forest, which eventually reached the coast, then followed a long sandy path next to the dunes before turning inland. More hedgerows and agricultural land, and another field of cows and calves to navigate, before reaching a shingle shore directly opposite Caernarfon. Time for lunch. I didn't meet a single person during the afternoon walk across fields and around the perimeter of the Plas Newydd estate. The route into Menai Bridge passed close to a Waitrose supermarket so, as my B&B was out of town, I decided to buy some items for dinner and avoid a long walk back into town to eat out later. That's Anglesey done in 6 days! Some amazing coastal views, with rugged headlands and rocky coves.

Shock horror! The sun didn't appear until 11 o'clock. By then I was circumnavigating the nooks and crannies of the tidal estuary, following tracks through narrow hedgerows teeming with birds and wild flowers one minute, and around the edges of parched arable fields the next. Before long, I'd arrived at RAF Valley, which seemed as busy as Heathrow with regular take offs and landings, before the route diverted to a long stretch of deserted beach. The quiet resort of Rhosneigr seemed like a perfect lunch spot. The afternoon was spent following a path close to the rocky foreshore. When it turned inland, I was confronted by a gathering of cows at a kissing gate. A stand off followed, the cows called for reinforcements, so I white flagged them and climbed over a barbed wire fence into the neighbouring field, where I met a walker coming towards me. He had just experienced the same at the opposite entrance!  I checked in to my accommodation in Aberffraw, then continued ...